Brief Biography

 

Nikolay Petkov Date of Birth: 11 November 1958, Smolian, Bulgaria Occupation: Electrical Engineer, Software specialist Doctor of Sciences Оccupation: CompuMotor Company, Sofia, Bulgaria

Irina, Martin and Peter

  Climbing Experience over the world:

            1980 - Caucasus, Shelda 4320 m – new route on East Face
            1983, winter, 22-24 January - Swiss Alps, North Face of Matterhorn 4478 m
            1983, winter - Caucasus,  Elbrus 5642 m
            1983, 1985, 2003 - Pamir, Peak Lenin 7134 m
            1983, 1986 - Pamir, Peak Kommunismus 7495 m
            1984, 9 May - Himalayas,  Mount Everest 8848 m - the West Ridge
            1984 - Dolomites, Cima Ovest di Lavaredo - "Cassin-Rati"
            1984 - French Alps, Petit Dru 3732 m - Directe Americaine in 10 hours
            1985, winter - Swiss Alps, North Face of Eiger 3975 m
            1986 - Pamir, South Face of Peak Kommunismus 7495 m
            1987 - Caucasus, Volna Espania, Elbrus
            1987 - Himalayas, Island peak 6200 m
            1987 - Andes, Aconcagua 6960 m
            1988 - Andes, Sought Face of Aconcagua 6960 m - "French Route"
            1988 - Mount McKinley 6194 m
            1991 - Patagonian Andes, Fitz Roy 3441 m
            1991 - Mount Kilimanjaro 5895 m
            1991, 18-20 December - Mount Kenya 5199 m, "Bulgarian Way" - new route (7 UIAA) on the South Face of Batian
            1992 - New Guinea, Karstenz Pyramid 5029 m
            1993 - French Alps, Grand Capucin - "Bonnati-Ghigo"
            1993 - French Alps, Petit Dru -"Pilier Bonnati"
            1994 - French Alps, Mont Blanc 4807 m - Pilier Central du Freney
            1995 - Oasan, French Alps, Aiguille Dibona, 6c
            1996 - Cordilera Blanca, Huascaran 6768 m
            1996 - Dolomites, Cima Grande di Lavaredo - "Comici-Dimai"
            1996 - Dolomites, Marmolada - "Tempi Moderni"
            1997 - Himalayas, Dhaulagiri 8167 m
            1998 - Karakoram, Trango Tower 6257 m - "Slovenian Route"
            1998 - Tien Shan, Khan Tengri 6995 or 7010 m
            2000 - French Alps, Petit Jorassess, Anuk
            2000 - Dolomites, Cima Grande di Lavaredo - "Comici-Dimai"
            2001 - Broad Peak Expedition
            2002 - Dolomites, Chiveta, NW face, Filippe-Flamm
            2002 - Nord America, Arizona, Grand Canyon, Comanche Ridge - new road
            2004, 20 May - Himalayas,  Mount Everest 8848 m - the NE Ridge
            2006, 8 July - Himalayas,  Nanga Parbat 8125 m - Kinshofer Route
            2007, October - Yosemite,  El Capitan - The Nose
            2008, September - Swiss Alps, North Face of Pitz Badile

 

  Climbing Experience in Bulgaria (newrouting)

Almoust all routes in Rila, Pirin and Vratza in summer.
All routes on the North face of Maliovica - Rila (some of them first winter acsents).
All routes on the North face of Vihren - Pirin in Winter.
A lot of first free acsents in Rila and Vratza.
A lot of sport climbing routes in Lakatnik and Vratza.

In the late 70-s and early 80-s Nikolay, Ivan Maslarov, Kiril Doskov, Lubomir Iliev, Dimitar Natchev and later Vassil Kirov, Milkana Rousseva and others, introduced in Bulgaria the new style of free climbing.

            1973 - First climbs with Ivan Maslarov, a friend from school
            1979 - "Orlovec" - 350 m new route in the left part of the Central Wall - Vratza
            1980 - "The Guides Route" - 300 m new route in centrum of the Central Wall - Vratza
            1981 - "Planinec" - 150 m new route in the centrum of the North face of Maliovica
            1982 - "Zmei" - 300 m new route in right part of the Central Wall - Vratza
            1982 - Two routes on the North face of Vihren in Winter in one day
            1985 - First acsent of 3 routes on the central wall of Vratza in one day
            1985 - "Cerro Torre" - 280 m new route in right part of the Central Wall - Vratza
            1987 - Equipped first VIII+ in Vratza - "Pleven" route
            1992 - Equipped his new route "Terminator", 280 m, Vratza
            1993 - Free climbed and direct last pitch of "The Guides Route", Vratza
            1994 - Direct variant of so called "Idi mi doidi mi route", 260 m, Vratza, :-)
................
            2001 - New route in memoriam Sophia Photeva, "Sophi", 250 m, Vratza